Like any proper fashionista, we love a bargain on a hot trendy item, but lately we’re a little disillusioned with the fast fashion frenzy. Fast fashion is a term used to describe clothing collections which are based on the most recent fashion trends.  These trends are designed and manufactured quickly and cheaply to allow the mainstream consumer to take advantage of current clothing styles at ultra low prices.  In theory this is all well and good, but the fact of the matter is that these garments are not being made in a socially or environmentally responsible manner. 

Here’s the deal, about two million tons of clothing end up in landfills every year and many major retailers regularly destroy unsold merchandise rather than donate it to those in need (check out the complaints against H&M and Urban Outfitters). What’s more, natural resources are being squandered on the immense amount of cotton it takes to produce such high volume clothing. Fortunately some countries are taking notice of this depletion in resources and have formed advocacy groups.   Recently the U.K. began a campaign, The Sustainable Clothing Action Plan, which comprises more than 300 retailers, producers, and designers who endeavor to make garments that are made, sold, and disposed of without damaging the environment or using poor labor practices.  Here in the U.S. various groups are working to improve sustainability and ensure fair labor practices as well as working to increase the ranges of fair trade and organic clothing available on the market, supporting fabrics which can be recycled more easily, banning cotton from countries know to use child labor, and giving fashion schools extra tools to educate students about sustainability in the industry. This is a great start, but reforming the fashion industry means that society has to redefine what it means to be fashionable.

Here are some easy things you can do to reduce, reuse, and recycle the best of fashion without compromising your style or your budget…

v  Look for organic and/or fair trade garments, it will often be clearly written on the tag.

v  Swap duds with friends, you can even make a party out of it!

v  Buy handmade artisan jewelry and accessories. You’ll feel good about supporting local artists and you’ll have a great conversation piece to flaunt.

v  Cruise through cool vintage/consignment/second hand shops.  This may take a bit more effort to comb the racks, but there are great finds to be had. 

v  Donate your unwanted clothes to local shelters and organizations. Remember those formal dresses tucked away in the back of your closet (the ones you thought would never see the light of day again)?  Well, it’s prom and wedding season so put those gowns to good use!  Go to http://www.donatemydress.org/ for more information on donating formal wear in your city.

v  Check out Borrow the Catwalk for couture you can borrow, wear, and return!

v  Upcycle!  Find a great tailor and revamp some classic pieces!  Shorten the hem of an old “investment” dress (we’re loving the mini’s right now), change up the buttons on a blouse or jacket, maybe add shoulder pads to your rotation (yes, they are back with a vengeance), get creative and consult your friends!

v  Advocate today! Use your Facebook/twitter/myspace/etc to share this information and find groups and organization that support such efforts. Also, check out (and sign) these petitions:

Stop H&M

Against Child Labour

End Sweatshop Labor in Big Business

Stop Saipan Sweatshops

Concern over the social and environmental impact of the fashion industry is itself inherently fashionable.    As the indomitable Coco Chanel said, ”Fashion is not something that exists in dresses only.  Fashion is in the sky, in the street; fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening”. So enjoy the trends, without being a slave to them and consider the implications of what you’re wearing.

The argument used to be whether buying knock offs was a fashion faux pas, but the issue has evolved and expanded.  It’s no longer about lost profits or maintaining the brand’s image; it’s about the protection of human rights and intellectual property.  

Although purchasing knocks offs is not illegal, counterfeiting itself is illegal and purchasing counterfeit products supports illegal activity.  According to the International Anti Counterfeit Coalition, counterfeiting costs U.S. businesses $200 billion to $250 billion annually. Counterfeiters do not pay taxes which means less money for your city’s schools, hospitals, parks and other social programs.  The IACC also states that counterfeit merchandise is directly responsible for the loss of more than 750,000 American jobs.  Unfortunately, approximately 5%-7% of the world trade is in counterfeit goods, which results in U.S. companies suffering $9 billion in trade losses due to international copyright piracy.  Counterfeiting also poses a threat to global health and safety because merchandise does not meet federal safety regulations.

If these facts and figures aren’t persuasive enough then consider this, counterfeiters do not pay their employees fair wages or benefits, they have poor working conditions, and often use child and slave labor. The profits from counterfeiting have been linked to funding organized crime, drug trafficking and terrorist activity.  Purchasing a knock off perpetuates the cycle of counterfeiting and your money directly supports activities you advocate against. 

Counterfeiting runs rampant because it is fueled by consumer demand, so do your part and educate others about the impact of buying knock offs.  Of course you should avoid buying knock-offs yourself, but if you do find yourself wondering whether that $20 “Hermes” scarf is the real deal remember the basics:

Research

There are dozens of blogs and websites that explain the ins and outs of designer items and what to watch out for when you’re not buying from an authorized vendor.  Every detail down to the spaces between the letters of the logo and the number of stitches used is important.

Labels/Numbers

Check for a care label on the inside of garments, or a serial number on sunglasses, handbags, and other accessories.  Vintage items may not have an identification number, however most authentic garments and accessories will have a proper label regardless of the era in which it was produced. 

Craftsmanship

Designer items are crafted by artisans and are made to last, so inspect the item closely for quality.  This is tricky with online shopping so read the fine print closely.  If it says “inspired by” or anything of the sort then do not buy it.  Sometimes counterfeit vendors will go overboard to stress the item’s “authenticity”, so be wary.

Accoutrement

 Designer garments, shoes, and accessories come with dust bags, boxes, garment bags and/or authentication information.   If your item doesn’t come with any of these extras, then it is probably a fake.  However, counterfeiters are now making replicas of these items as well, so inspect for quality just as you would a dress or handbag.

Price

If it seems too good to be true, it probably is. 

Location 

Trust your instincts, if it’s shady, forget about it. 

For more information check out these resources:

§  1-800-report-a-fake

§  Anti-Counterfeiting Links

§  INTA  

§  IACC

We all want to do our part to save the planet and fortunately nothing is more fashionable than being eco-conscious! There are many easy ways to be fashionably green and the basics are simple…

·         Purchase locally sourced items to cut down on the byproducts of shipping products long distances.

·         Look for sustainable products which are made from renewable resources that don’t overly tax the Earth. Ideal sustainable resources are those that can be replaced at a rate equal to or greater than the rate at which they are consumed.

·         Shop at vintage consignment shops and recycle or donate your unwanted clothes.

·         Wash clothes at 30 degrees when possible. Washing clothes at cooler temperatures uses less energy and cuts down on carbon emissions. Also avoid tumble-drying clothes if possible. Air drying your garments not only cuts down on energy waste, it also prolongs the life of your clothes.

·         Find Eco-Conscious products from wind-powered factories that use recycled waste-water. In addition to employing eco-friendly practices, eco-conscious companies often donate a percentage of profits to eco-related causes.

·         When presented with the option, choose items that don’t require dry-cleaning. Many dry-cleaning chemicals are toxic, however you can find eco-friendly dry-cleaners when necessary.

·         Try to wait until you have a full load of clothes before doing the laundry.  This cuts down on the amount of water and energy used.  Many products now feature energy efficient specifications, so keep an eye out when purchasing your next washer and dryer.

·         Opt for fair trade garments.  Fair trade means that producers are paid fair prices for their products.  This will often be indicated on the tag.  

·         Buy organic cottons or non-traditional fibers like bamboo or hemp. Much of our clothing is made of cotton and cotton blends which is a massive crop that requires pesticides and chemical byproducts to produce (it is the most pesticide dependent crop in the world accounting for 25% of all pesticide use).  Popular demand for cheap cotton has increased cotton production which has increased the amount of harmful chemicals being used. Most cotton t-shirts require up to ¼ lb. of harmful chemicals to produce. 

·         Remember to look for low impact dyes, another often overlooked pollutant in the garment industry.  Look for clothes that are unbleached or bleached with hydrogen peroxide only. Avoid garments with wrinkle-free treatments. 

·         Request that fair-trade and eco friendly designers be available at your favorite stores. 

·         For more ideas and information check out Eco Fashion World, Ecouterre, The Fairtrade Federation, and  CCOF.